Continuing our series of London Collections: Men Previews with a taste of what’s to come from Berthold for Spring/Summer 2015. Austrian-born Raimund Berthold went solo in 2009, pushing “a utilitarian sense of color and a silhouette that is free from defined shape.” Mixing the synthetic with the natural, smart and sport, the Saint Martins graduate creates distinctive, contemporary menswear. This season incorporates prints from artist Tara Langford and some out-of-character experimentation with bold color. Find out what the future holds for Berthold in our interview and get up close with their mood for Spring 2015 in the gallery.
Tell us a little about your preparation for Spring/Summer 2015. When does it all begin and what’s the starting point?
Well, it all began in January and I always spend a few days with my books or in a library trawling through random things. This is then followed by a couple of days in bookstores and then some more days looking at vintage garments. A week later, I compile my mood board, which normally doesn’t make any sense to anyone else and then I begin to sketch.
How would you sum up Spring/Summer 2015?
Experimental and fun with luxe fabrics and energetic prints. I even used a couple of colors this season, which is very new for me as I normally always go back to white and black.
Can you give us an insight into some of the details?
I have worked with different webbings and tape from car seat belts to very narrow strips with a chevron weave in yellow, black and white. The artist Tara Langford designed all of the prints.
Who did you have in mind when designing the collection? And would you say you generally design for yourself or others?
I always design for others, but then if there is something I have designed and I wouldn’t myself wear it, I have to wonder why or where it has come from. I think that’s important. As a designer, you have to be constantly asking questions.
Is there one piece you’re really excited to unveil?
The amount of color in the collection is new for me. I love all of the printed garments and I really enjoyed the process of work with Tara. I like creative collaboration. We also designed the label’s first scarf – it is printed silk and cashmere, produced with Begg & Co., who have been weaving cashmere, silk and lambswool angora yarns in Ayr, Scotland since 1866.
Anyone else on the LC:M schedule you’re looking forward to checking out?
I only ever look at the collections once they have been shown. I’m not that interested in who is showing, as I am more interested in what they are showing. It’s more surprising that way.