With Milan Men’s Fashion Week, aka Milan Moda Uomo, coming to a close yesterday, we round up the best looks from the best collections presented. As a whole, there are two main trends we are happy to spot for Spring/Summer 2015: retro throwbacks and loose-fit tailoring. Both are perhaps a reaction against the exaggeratedly futuristic silhouettes and space-age-evoking materials that flooded the runways last season. Skinny pants and neoprene are no more, says Milan.
Ferragamo had one of the strongest collections this past week, with a seemingly endless array of looks that have us in envy for every piece. Faded shades of blue, purple, and pink walked in rich, lightly tailored fabrics. What we admire most about this collection are the classic male silhouettes — loose trousers, blazers, blousons and more — that manage to stay forward-thinking and young. See all the looks here.
A rather coldly colored collection for a spring season, Fendi’s Milan presentation was clean and modern. But what really got them on the best of Moda Uomo list is their throwback to retro accessories, like oversized headphones (a Beats by Dre collaboration, by the way) and shoulder fanny packs. See the full collection here.
Canali by Andrea Pompilio
Andrea Pompilio designed Canali’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection, combining hopelessly Italian styles — double-breasted suits, calfskin shoes and slicked-back hair — with contemporary touches like car coats and sneakers. More looks here.
Inspired by old LA and 1950s Hollywood, Brioni’s Spring/Summer 2015 lookbook released during Milan Fashion Week embodies retro pop culture in a refined way. The lightweight printed bomber jackets are absolute standouts. More looks here.
As always, Les Hommes offer up an impeccably tailored range of modern suiting. The mostly black and gray palette is punctuated by hits of yellow and metallic tops. See the full collection here.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture
Like true couture, Zegna Couture Spring/Summer 2015 was produced with exclusively developed materials including pure silk and cashmere, gabardine, and quilted nylon. Among the space-themed outerwear and styling, understated details like stripes hidden in dark lining refine the collection. Watch the presentation video above and see the looks in detail here.
Miuccia Prada delivered a presentation taking from the 1930s’ Great Depression. Dryly flat “paper doll-like” suits feature thick exposed stitchings and Western-themed colors. See more looks from the collection and the full runway video here.
Milan-based British designer Neil Barrett thankfully didn’t go the ultra-futuristic, all-neoprene route, paring his urban designs down to ones with wearability. The head-to-toe white opening look is our favorite. See the full collection here.
If any brand can make boys wear pastel pink and purple, it would be Jil Sander. We are fans of the oversized trousers that remind us of ’90s schoolboy uniforms. See the full lookbook here.