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Fashion June, 30 2014

Best Looks | Paris Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

As the Fashion Week train rumbles on we stop for a moment in Paris to collect the best of a packed-out schedule. The French capital offers more choice and diversity than ever before with showrooms, showcases, runways and presentation vying for attention.

Developing young talent and a host of wearable, buyer-friendly labels, Paris proudly protects the well-known and celebrated houses famed for luxury and conceptual design. Once again we spot, and support, the push for a more relaxed fit in tailoring and casual wear, wide-leg trousers and flowing layers bringing elegance to contemporary dress. Sportswear continues to make its presence felt, albeit on a more understated level, and masculinity is approached from all angles.

Dries van Noten

Dries Van Noten turned to legendary ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev for inspiration in this beautiful, soft approach to masculinity. Loose silk shirts, embroidered jackets, bare chests under flowing, decorated robes, and a series of extravagant harnesses that somehow just seemed right. More here.

 

Sacai

Outerwear was the star at Sacai’s show; the label brought a selection of jackets together,   often literally on top of one another, for an incredibly wearable collection that felt as if it belonged on the streets – now. Parkas, bombers, blazers – zips, ropes and belts, each piece intricate or completely stripped back in the case of the boxy fit T-shirts. See the full line here.

 

Paul Smith

Hippies, stoners and, erm, “gardening” were central to Smith’s Summer 2015. Psychedelic swirls of color, zine-esque illustrations, and plenty of flora and fauna prints covered loose layers including relaxed, silk trousers and fringed tops. The hand print bomber and tunic tops most definitely our favorites. Get a look at it all here.

 

Junya Watanabe

Watanabe tapped into the current obsession with boro, sashiko, indigo and all that blue jazz with his Summer 2015 collection. The designer has been doing the workwear thing for quite some time so being of the moment, rather than future-thinking, was most definitely allowed. The cuts were classic JW: chore jackets, cuffed hems, ankle length trousers, carrot shape selvedge denim and the like remained; printed fabrics, however, were the stars of the show. More here.

 

Wooyoungmi

A soft take on sportswear, Wooyoungmi push a relaxed approach to menswear, cutting tech materials like silks and encouraging you to keep cuffs and hems overflowing. We’re big fans of the oversized fit and for those looking to dip their toes into this way of life, Wooyoungmi offer the perfect gateway cut. See the full line here.

 

Hermès

Understated luxury from Hermès, a lesson in using print quietly, squiggles, florals and shadow geometric shapes featured across pullover parkas, relaxed fit trousers and soft knitwear. While elements of the collection suggesting a more easy-going, sporty feel, the wide use of suede, leather and crocodile were a reminder that this is Hermès we’re dealing with – opulence at the show’s core. More here.

 

Krisvanassche

The Belgian designer, inspired by Christian Dior’s life of business and travel, produced a collection of attire that fuses professional with playful. From an unstructured denim blazer and knee-slit slacks combination to an elongated MA-1 Flight jacket paired with a shortened tie, these looks are what we would expect from an avant-garde artist dressing for a business meeting. We would categorize this offering as loose silhouettes with bohemian styling. View the full collection here.

 

Kenzo

For this collection, Carole Lim and Humberto Leon are greatly inspired by their two home nations: the United States and France. Aside from references to their beloved countries – a State of Liberty and Les Mesirables tanktop – the designers opted for an androgynous aesthetic apparent in see-through crew necks and large trench coats. To further accent its gender-neutral appeal, Kenzo utilized “macaroon-colored” aka pastel hues throughout the collection. Browse the looks here.

 

Undercover

Undercover present a refined, rock and roll look in their Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Two albums by Television, Marquee Moon and Adventure, are honored several times as outwear pieces are decorated with the covers. Whether the models are wearing a technical coat with tight ripped black denim or a maroon trench paired with orange gingham, they all sport a stern, grungy face. See the rest of the collection here.

 

Umit Benan

The collection is reminiscent of tennis wear in the ’90s with scarves, anoraks, jogger pants and white canvas sneakers. To complement Benan’s athletic styling, models carried either backpacks or duffle bags with a tennis racket handle peeping out. The most notable look was a gentleman walking barefoot in a blue robe and a cream colored scarf as it reminds us to keep relaxed and comfortable this season. View the rest of the looks here.

Highsnobiety