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Denim Demon
Protecting and Nursing Blue Jean Heritage
SL: I'd like to get back to the topic of Sami tradition and heritage. What are some of the things you've learned during this project? You mention Per Guttorm's riding motocross, and I wonder about the melding of tradition and contemporary... especially as you've
incorporated something of this idea into the SS09 line with the Kolt. Oskar: It was kind of strange really, since we went up there again to collect and document our seven Sami´s. But from day one it took a big turn for me. We got thrown into the life of a Sami, and I am still trying to sort all the experiences... Every day I had to tell myself that the main object and reason to be there where the jeans. Since our grandmother was Sami and a reindeer herder, it was a big thing for me, living the life she did together with a lot of relatives. And in her old home village... We want to add more tradition into our clothes, and will do so. Earlier we weren't so well educated in the traditions of Sami culture, but we are learning more and more each day. And to be completely honest, when we designed the first two collections we didn't know how far we could go. Sami's are by tradition very protective about their culture and they do not want anyone to take advantage of it. So we started small, and added more and more. This Wear Out project has helped us a lot and we have even getting wishes in doing more traditional Sami products such as hats and belts. I don't know if that will happen, but you never know. What we have thought of though is nice looking jeans, but with a little twist, which will make them most wearable for all seasons and practical in the life of a Reindeer keeper. I have learned how my relatives have lived and are living their lives. It is so far from everything you experience in the world of fashion and a nice contrast to our spending community. SL: It must be an amazing feeling to see your garments in use as you have with this project. What has it taught you about assessing movement and activity in design? Oskar: At the moment no. We try to do very traditional styles and if it has been working for over a 100 years why shouldn't it work for another 100. However this project has made us think about updating a few of our styles in some ways, but more in the terms of making them fit better for different seasons, cold, snow etc. We did get a lot of nice input on these things, so it would be cool and make jeans especially for hard working conditions together with details to improve protection from cold... SL: Absolutely, and that really is the beauty of work wear, the longevity and functionality. And, as you mention cold, I wondered if denim plays a role in Sami workwear, or if it was a bit of an exception to have folks wear your pants? Oskar: It was a big exception I must say. I mean they do wear jeans, as everyone else does, but not when working. Need to point out that not all of our seven Sami's worked with reindeers. It was 4 of 7 that made their living on it. So for the other three with "normal" jobs and school it wasn't any big change. Normally they wear clothes suited for the work their doing, since they tend to stand on one knee very often they usually have enforcement there, and of course during winter and snow they use pants for that climate. But no one complained anything about it, they have been working absolutely fine. So it was good for us to see that denim isn't just a fashion garment, it actually works excellent for working as well. And since we are focusing a lot on quality, this was the best test our jeans could get. "The Swedish Cow(reindeer)boys have tried 'em, and if they work for them, they will work for you" |







