Haven’t thrown you a brogue in a minute, and these calm, understated puppies from Rachel Comey are well worth a nod. We see a lot of brogues that aim to impress with bold soles or mad color-contrast on the uppers, and there’s nothing wrong there. What we like about these, however, is the absence of all of that.

That muted gray just barely whispers “brogue” and even the toe seems a little less bulbous than most. The one bit of pop—that blond leather sole—is still nothing more than a suggestive “ahem.” Bottom line: these are all walk, no talk. Penelope’s has them.

More looks after the jump…

Thought we’d drop a little Tricker’s business for a Thursday morning. Très Bien have worked with the kings of the collaboration before, those guys are old friends now. This newest effort has to be one of their best. A cap toe derby with the most incredible Zug grain leather – all black from the laces to the sole. The store mention this is made on a wide last so you can squeeze those thick mountaineering socks in that all the kids are wearing – clever thinking. Lined with navy blue leather and stamped with gold,  this is the business. Find it at Très Bien.

Click for images.

It’s like a Euros clash of sorts. A battle which many of my close Italo friends would love to witness on the pitch but alas, this is a loving collaboration. Italy’s Buttero works with Portuguese boutique, Por Vocação on a pair of derby shoes which should remain off the pitch. Buttero has an almost Japanese-like obsession with a perfect finished product. The leathers and stitching always look exceptionally clean. We’re assuming these derby shoes will be no different. Made from vegetable tanned horse leathers, the shoes are available in three colorways: taupe, dark brown and black, as well as greased finish takes on uppers of the latter. Distinct. Find the at Por Vocação.

More looks after the click.

We love a good derby. We can’t help it, it’s the granddad in us. The derby wasn’t picked up to the same extent as the brogue, so you can wear these without worrying about looking like you’ve dressed by the internet. You won’t even have to tell anyone it was a website who recommended it. It’ll be our little secret. (Herring Shoes)

These smart Jil Sander shoes are a little bit special. 100% calfskin, simple Derby style construction, the key is the thick, bordering on chunky, sole. The asymmetrical tread may go unseen but it’ll make some pretty cool patterns on a snowy day. It’s the little things. lncc has them.

More looks after the click.

A nice special for the Tres Bien Shop. This UK made derby shoe from the Our Legacy line features a calf leather upper, black leather piping, and a crepe sole (a thick one). Color is proper on this slightly wide and chunky derby.

What’s more overdone the white sole or the red brick one? Trick question – it’s both, just to slightly different people. The white sole is sold to ex-streetwear fiends who are scared of a leather sole and the red brick is sold to the menswear crowd. Despite the overuse of the sole, we still like it when it’s done well and this shoe is an example of just that. (ASOS)

Trawling through Yoox is a little tiresome at times at best, but there are some good picks to be found. Take these Jil Sander derbies for instance. They’re pretty, tanned and only £195. What more can we say? (Yoox)

We’re still a bit confused at the whole shift to Italian tailoring that’s happened in blogging. Actually, we’re more confused at the rejection of everything that was fawned about a few seasons back. Us? We still like the things we always did, we just like a couple of new things as well. Take these Alfred Sargent’s for instance. Handsome, classic, rugged, dainite – we’ll stop now, we’re starting to sound like a perfume commercial. (Shoe Healer)

Still on the lookout for a handsome shoe with a  red brick sole? Allow us to point you to these Church’s Strattons. We’ve said this so much we’re blue in the face, but you can’t cheap out on shoes. If you don’t notice it at first, you’ll notice it down the line. So step your footwear game up with these Church’s. And, judging from the sole, keep up locked away on rainy days. (Herring)