With inspiration coming from Hemingway’s “The Old Man and the Sea,” designer, Daisuke Obana presents the N. Hoolywood Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. The touches to ports of call are apparent and done well: short pants with seafaring knit tops and striped numbers. No arguing that the collection is a strong fit for all.

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Delivering on a new platform, Billy Reid took to the runway to showcase his Autumn/Winter 2012 collection for men and women that delivers the strongest collection yet from the designer. Tailoring on the garments and controlled fits clearly cater to a more sophisticated of Southern charm while opening the racks for gentlemen of all natures. This is indeed classic American menswear which is stepping out of the backwoods and into both forward casual and formal territory. The story here is told through the cuts, fabrics and growth.

Grab a coffee or tea and spend some time our gallery for a complete look at the Billy Reid Autumn/Winter 2012 men’s collection

Photography: Selectism.com

It is late and we need to run to one more show, but before we do, let’s take a look at the rag & bone collection for Autumn Winter 2012 which WWD describes as: “an authoritative men’s collection heavy on military themes — sweeping tweed officer’s coats with shearling collars and herringbone cavalry pants tucked into leather boots.” Looks are good but I would love to know more about their team-up with AT&T and Samsung for the Galaxy Note launch. Not much on the Facebook page at the moment.

Photography: wwd

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The Richard Chai/Filson affair was front and center this morning at Richard Chai’s Autumn/Winter 2012 runway show, part of New York Fashion Week, and not just in accessories (as mentioned earlier in the week, Chai is now creative director of Filson). Fabrics and textiles used throughout Chai’s collection look to be sourced from Filson’s own archive and fashioned in a manner that really does hint as a merging of two styles: the boxy fits – standards in the Filson collection – make their presence on the runway along with more tailored long coats. The inspiration as noted is Richard Chai “in the wood.” It certainly looks to be the case in a positive manner.

Photography: Selectism.com

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J. Lindeberg is taking some alpine queues and inspiration from the Arctic landscape for their Autumn Winter collection, coming later this year. Head designer, Jessy Heueve, tells us, “I’m inspired by the rough, arctic landscape and by garments that have evolved from a specific need – for utility and function in combination with the latest technical innovations – updating, developing and transforming them for the modern and active man.”

They may be onto something with their focus on the tech fabrics, as they have for some seasons now. The knitted leggings for men are of interest as is the use of Italian Loro Piana waterproof fabrics on their Wilhelm parka – they detail to quality is there. Consider J. Lindeberg today if you have passed over their collections; the Scandinavian brand is doing it right in 2012.

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Soulland gets all regal Russian with the ‘Imperial’ collection for Autumn/Winter 2012. Moscow before the fall of the iron curtain provides inspiration (we’re hoping no one uses the phrase ‘tsar-chic’)  as well as the work of artists Wassily Kandinsky and Kazimir Malevic. However this is Soulland after all, so modern, casual and college are thrown in the mix as well as the introduction of new prints including the use of Russian tattoo imagery.

Photography: Copenhagen Fashion Week

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A backstage look from Lanvin’s Autumn Winter 2012 runway presentation as shown in Paris’ Halle Freyssinet on Sunday, January 22.

We move deeper into the void with the great Thom Browne. His mainline Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, is an incredible jock-freak takeover that I honestly love. If you plan on going conceptual, go fucking hard, but retain that touch of the wearable, which is evident when you look beyond those nails and broad shoulders. As usual, we applaud the weird. As one person in our office said, “It reminds us of the guy who always plays the creepy guy.”

Photography: GQ

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More tough faced models in leather and black for Autumn Winter 2012. Dazed brings us looks from the YSL show that looks to dip into the black rather than blue rush for autumn. As they tell us, Stefano Pilati works around the theme of “Sex and Money” for the collection. Uniformed fit like we saw in other collections. Let us know your thoughts on the collection.

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Dazed delivers behind-the-runway photos from the Adam Kimmel show, Autumn Winter 2012. Inspired by “Area 51″ and USAF, mil-steez, Kimmel reaches into the blue territory that we’ve been seeing for autumn. While mil-inspired, the fashions are that – cut and fitted looks for the runway. Nothing too casual here.

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