With The Duffer of St. George celebrating 25 years, Glenn Kitson catches up with founder Marco Cairns.

Camden, North London, 1984. A group of friends begin an enterprise that would eventually lead them to starting the UK’s first streetwear label. The Duffer of St. George was conceived as a way to get off the dole, make a bit of cash to bankroll a bit of clubbing and enjoy a period in early 1980s London when you could still have access to a manufacturing base that would knock up some limited runs of t-shirts, jackets or trousers and still not break the bank.

Read the Selectism feature, “Marco Cairns, The Duffer of St. George” here.

The Tate Modern’s Rothko exhibition opened on September 26. Revolving around Rothko’s later works, and his works in series, the show explores his strategies of repetition and variations on single themes. Complementing the on-site is a well conceived web portion complete with gallery talks and interviews with the curators. The best of this comes in the sense of process gleaned from the interview. A great thing when museums unveil the curtain and join the visitor in the excitement of putting things together.

Rothko is open until February 1, 2009.

In the 60s, when Mods were hanging out at Milk Bars, gingham shirts were a must for anybody who wanted to be part of the scene.

In their second collaboration, size? UK and Fred Perry pay homage to the iconic pattern, with a collection around the classic black/red and white/black colorways. For both color schemes there will be Tipped Cuff and Oxford models of footwear, along with a "Made In England" small collar polo.

The Oxford will include a gingham side quarter, while the tipped cuff will feature a gingham cuff and both will include a question mark logo lace lock. The polo will be finished with a gingham placket.

The limited edition size? x Fred Perry footwear and polo shirts will be released at size? stores in September ‘08.

After the jump a more detailed look at the footwear and at the polo shirts.

UK based fashion house Ground Zero falls in a school of fashoin that seems to skew the lines between genre centric fashion. Androgynous at times, Ground Zero designs around "attitude and moods." (via HC)

View more of the Ground Zero "As You Like it Collection" for Spring/Summer 2008 after the jump.

London’s  Telegraph published an intereesting editorial on the state of mens jeans calling out for a move away from the “drainpipe” look and for designers ot start considering the over-30 crowd. “Added to the woes of the average jean-seeker, brands such as Cheap Monday and American Apparel have pushed drainpipes, a cut that gives a spray-on look that requires an underfed frame, so it’s not one that many over the age of 30 need attempt.” Writer Charlie Porter (who is also Associate editor at GQ UK) sings the praises of Acne’s “The Gentleman’s Jean.”

Read the full story here.

Taking inspiration from vintage clothing seems basic on the surface. However, rarely do people push beyond the basic rehashing of old themes and looks. Garbstore is about capturing a feeling in manufacturing and detail. Against the rash of retro style and nostalgic graphic pilfering, this approach is certainly refreshing. It proves the benefits of looking closely at material culture and extracting lessons from that exercise.

Having founded One True Saxon, and helmed R. Newbold and Red Ear in the Paul Smith empire, Ian Paley’s reputation speaks for itself. His experiences, no doubt, have provided him with necessary tools to pick apart aspects of the old and re-imagine them so cleanly. Garbstore is a brand hinged directly on the quality of its product and the joys of making new items.

Highsnobiety sat down with Ian Paley of Garbstore, one of the most exciting new brands that we have come across in a while. Make sure to read the feature.

Read the Feature here…

Here a look at the new MHL collection designed by UK designer Margaret Howell. Margaret Howell is especially known for her menswear collections and for creating clothes based on vintage pieces that she comes across. The MHL line is the younger sports collection, with her general line being more dressy and sophisticated.

Here MHL collection consists of western shirts, blazers, beanies, scarfs, a rugby shirt and also a rain coat. The collection is now available in the newly revamped Hanon Online Store. We are especially excited about her shirts, which are all handmade in London with a lot of know-how going into them.

Check out some more pieces of the collection after the jump.

The Garbstore website finally launched. The brand that calls its style “unfamiliar vintage” has presented a really interesting first collection this season. The website gives you some more insight into the brand and they will also launch an online store shortly. You can already check out all the styles. Another interesting thing is, that the online store will carry Garbstore and also Japanese brand Mountain Research, which is pretty much impossible to come by in Europe. Mountain Research is also a very interesting brand, taking each season one theme and entirely dedicating themselves to this theme.

Check it out for yourself!